Final Wax Recommendation as of Saturday evening, March 3.
50/40/25km distances, wave starts. 50K Freestyle waves start at Service High School, 9:30am; 40K Freestyle waves start at Service High School at 10:30am; 25k Classic waves start at APU at 11:00am, 25k Freestyle waves start at APU at Noon.
more info at: www.anchoragenordicski.com/races/tour-of-anchorage/
Forecast/Conditions: Saturday highs of 28F, with up to 2" fresh snow having fallen. Temps Saturday night expected to drop to a low of 14, warming to 15-17F by 9:30am race time. 11am and 12am race starts should be 20-22F.
Baselayers, all races: The goal here is to put down a good durable base layer that will harden the base up to help repel dirt.
Fast: 50 and 40k races: SG8 Blue then SG10 Green; 25k races: SG8 Blue
Faster: 50 and 40k races: LF8 Blue then LF10 Green; 25k races: LF8 Blue
Fastest: 50 and 40k races: LF8 Blue then MF10 Green; 25k races: MF8 Blue
Application of Base Layers: SG/LF8 Blue and SG/LF/MF10 Green. First, apply a layer of SG8 or LF8 Blue glide wax. Let it cool slightly, melt a little more wax onto the base, and then iron it in again, using light pressure with the iron. Repeat this process once or twice more. Then, while the base is still warm, scrape the wax with a sharp plastic scraper, shaving the wax off, not chipping it. Brush lightly with a metal brush. Next, apply a layer of SG/LF/MF10 Green. Use a hot iron (around 150C) so that the wax melts quickly (using an iron that is too cool means you spend more time ironing the ski back and forth, risking base damage). Don't try to get all the wax melted the first time running the iron down the ski. It may take 3 runs with the iron down the ski to get the wax properly melted into the ski. While the base is still warm (but not hot), scrape the groove first and then scrape the Green wax, again using a sharp plastic scraper and light to medium pressure, and shave the wax off the ski. Brush with a metal brush several times, and then scrub with a hard nylon brush.
Note: We have updated the wax recommendation to reflect a warmer temperature prediction, with lows Saturday and Sunday to be in the mid-teens, with highs in the mid-20s.
Fast: 50k and 40k Races: LF8 Blue; 25k Races: LF6 Violet
Faster: 50k and 40k Races: MF8 Blue; 25k Races: MF6 Violet
Fastest: 50k and 40k Races: HF8 Blue; 25k Races: HF6 Violet;
Glide Application: Select the fluorination level of wax of your choice, whether LF, MF, or HF. Apply a layer of the wax to your base, again making sure the iron is hot enough so that the wax melts quickly. Once the wax is melted sufficiently into the base, wait just until the base is warm, but not hot, and scrape using the same technique as above. Make sure to scrape your groove first! Next, brush with a fine steel or copper brush, then switch to a horsehair brush, finishing with a hard nylon brush. The base structure should be exposed, and there should be very little wax being brushed off the ski base anymore.
Top Pure Fluor layer(s):
Fast: All Races: HF11 Pure Fluor Block (+5...-10C)
Faster: All Races: HF7 Powder (-2...-7C)
Fastest: All Races: HF7 Powder, then HF11 Block
Top Application: Remember, apply fluorocarbons in a well ventilated area, and preferably with a filtration or purifier mask.
HF11 Block (5...-10C): Crayon a thin layer of the HF11 on the base. With the iron at 150C, take a sheet of fiberlene, and hold it between the iron and the base. Run the iron slowly (up to a minute) and continuously down the ski base from tip to tail. If your bases aren't flat, then run the iron down one side of the groove, and then the other. Let the ski cool, and then apply another thin layer of HF11 to the base. Iron it the same as before. After letting the base cool, take a designated fluor natural cork and vigorously cork the base, or use a Roto-cork. This will stretch the fluorine molecules out and make the block faster right away. Brush out with a designated fluor horsehair brush, then a hard nylon, and finish with a soft nylon brush. Polish with fiberlene.
HF7 Powder: Sprinkle an even layer of powder onto the base, both sides of the groove. Use enough so that the iron won't be coming into too much direct contact with the base. Using an iron with a temperature of 150C, tamp the powder lightly down onto the ski base. Then, run the iron down one side of the groove, and then the other (this will ensure proper application of the powder even on skis that have some convexity). Let the base cool slightly, then "brush-up" the powder, and iron it in again. Let the base cool. Lightly scrape the powder off the base, then brush with a designated fluor horsehair brush, moving tip to tail. Then scrub vigorously with the hard nylon brush, finishing with the soft nylon brush. Polish with fiberlene.
HF7 Powder and HF11 Bloc: This method will give you the fastest from the get go, and most durable pure fluor application. Apply the HF7 powder as laid out above. Then crayon a layer of HF11 block onto the base. Then, either Roto-cork or vigorously hand cork (natural cork, not synthetic) the HF11 layer into the base. Let it cool slightly, and then brush tip to tail several times using a horsehair brush, then scrub with the hard nylon brush, and finally the soft finishing brush. Polish with a fiberlene cloth.
Remember, re-brush your skis after you have tested them right before your race. This will remove the last bits of wax that have been brought to the surface of the base by the snow, and keep your skis running faster, longer.
Base: Rough up kick zone with 150grit sandpaper. Iron on a thin layer of Start Base grip wax. Let it cool, and then cork smooth. Then apply a layer of Start Synthetic Blue, and cork smooth with a synthetic cork.
Grip: Add a layer of RF Red (-1..-5C), then a full layer of RF Blue (-4..-10C), corking smooth each layer, making sure to keep the wax layers smooth. Next, add another short layer of RF Red, corked smooth, and then add 2 final thin cover layers of FHF80 Blue (-4...-10C) grip.